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- Travelogue Of An Urban Seeker.
Violent thoughts had been storming the mind for too long now and there was no other way for a settlement but a sabbatical. For a few years now i had sensed that at a time when emotions were panning the globe like never before, there must be a lasting way to sort out imbalances of the within and without. To empower oneself to justify, seek and perhaps redefine man’s relation with man and that with himself, rather than with his god. There were breaks that i had taken in the past too, to try and iron these out thru trial but they had at best been seriously flirting attempts and therefore limited in wholesome benefit. This time, as i was to realize later, would be life altering, making a committed attempt by treading the Way of Awakening in the footsteps of the Buddha.
Few months earlier to the plan, i sought permission from the wife of 20yrs. With the first go-bye signalled, i now turned to my young spiritual friend of 2years. Chogyal Wangdi, a Lopon by designation thru 17yrs of merit-worthy practice, has a Masters in Philosophy from the Nyingma University of Tibetan Buddhism, Karnataka. It was from him that i picked up the nuances of the tradition during my two week stint at Bylakuppe, a couple of years ago. He was delighted to know of my interest in travelling to Bodh Gaya, the very heart of enlightenment. Over the years, Chogyal, a Bhutanese, at 35 a decade younger to me in age, has been a beacon of guidance, a living Buddha for me. Encouraging in every way, compassionate, providing meanings and relevant information patiently, assisting whole-heartedly, answering every query mindfully he has been wisely and skilfully supportive all along. Whilst embarking on this sojourn, it was no different. Therefore, although not alone, yet now i was in solitude.
As the train chugged into Gaya station on a balmy October morn, it was well before daybreak. 3.45am. Suddenly the otherwise sleepy station came alive with the cacophony of autowallas, competing in fare & decibel, offering to take me and my faithful rucksack, to Bodh Gaya, a hours drive away. The bumpy ride tumbled thru an ocean of darkness towards the shore of enlightenment with the noisy chatter of diesel engine and pitter-patter of a light drizzle, for re-assuring company.
Bodh Gaya, 120kms that takes 5hrs from dusty Patna, today a small town in Bihar, no more than 5sqkm, is the very place where Prince Siddhartha Gautama of the Sakya clan was transformed into Sakyamuni Buddha, meditating un-distracted for forty-nine moons, amidst what once was dense forest. The leafy premises of the well-planned Mahabodhi temple inspire nothing else but peace & serenity, infusing the right energies the seeker aspires. Although many locals follow other faiths, there is no doubt that central to Bodh Gaya, is Buddhism.
It was still before daybreak when I arrived at the Bhutan Monastery which was to be my home over the next two weeks. Like most urban night watchmen, this one was asleep too. I was reasonably sure he would have gone back to bed once he had opened one of the rooms i had managed to book ahead, since he said “Ab aap bhi so jao…subah baat karenge”. The journey had begun.
Except for the outside of the main temple area, where once witnesses unfortunate sights of karmic suffering, each day the sprawling, carefully manicured, warmly inviting, well shaded, immaculately clean, Mahabodhi temple premise comes alive at 4am. Central to all the ‘action’ is the Bodhi Tree, the fourth generation of the original under which Enlightenment was attained just before daybreak by the Supreme Master. Monks, bhikkus, bhikkunis, lamas, practicing laity, believers, tourists from all over the world, South East Asia in particular, converge here for reasons of prayer, altruistic ceremony, meditation, chanting, seeking, understanding, redeeming, confessing, reading, prostrating, offering & receiving alms with utmost respect & dignity, all co-habiting in a state of heightened awareness and harmony as part of the community, called Sangha. Alongside, playful squirrel, chatty birds, friendly campus dogs and other sentient beings feel included too.
Chogyal had kindly arranged for me to meet with two teachers in his friends, both Lopons, Sonam Phurbu and Tenzin Dorjee, both also practitioners of the Nyingma tradition. Well, it kind of worked well since each one knew one language well! Doubts along the Way were addressed by them with alacrity in Hindi & English.
The ensuing days had an intensely definitive pattern. Praying, Meditating, Reading, Practicing, Seeking. Praying, Meditating, Reading, Practicing, Seeking some more…and was i in bliss? The Buddha Dharma is as exciting as it is exacting a finger that points towards cessation of suffering. It is his who endeavours most, advised the famed Sakya monk.
By now i had decided to take refuge in the (root) Teacher, the Buddha, the Dharma and the Sangha. It is the refuge that makes the difference between a Buddhist and a non-Buddhist, i was told. "Is there an obligation to follow ones parents’ faith?" crossed a thought. And i was at peace with the answer. So, also were taken the Bodhichitta vows, the Guru Yoga vows, the Purification vows, Empowerments and other necessities. The turmoil within was all of a sudden secured with unparalleled happiness. Unimaginable joy permeated within. The mind emptied and cleared. The Buddha smiled.
I have since changed faith. I am now a Nyingma Buddhist.
‘Nyingma’ means ‘old’ or ‘ancient’, and has its roots in Tibet, introduced by Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhava or Lotus Born, 8th CE), the Second Buddha. ‘Dzogchen’ or Great Perfection teachings are central to the Nyingma tradition.
As forces of the universe conspired to further my journey despite blown-up railway tracks, i was able to travel further into Sikkim. At Gangtok, it was to seek blessings of HH Dodrup Rinpoche at Chorten Gompa. Leaving the hustle & bustle of Gangtok, i headed for the hills. With Mt. Kanchendzonga and her lovely little sisters in the peaks of Kabru, Simvo, Pandim, Narsing as formidable companions, it was unabated seeking opportunities at the heritage monasteries of Pemayangtse and Sanga Choeling, both of the Nyingma sect.
The commanding views of these mountains around me were mesmeric. Sample this: To wake up on Diwali day and realize the meaning of ‘festival of lights’ to be the silent golden glow of the first rays of the sun bounce off the lording massiff! Isn’t this what some called nirvana? Incidentally, there are plenty of delightful walks & hikes from here to suit every interest level. Some offer inspiring views of the mountains upclose.
In co-existing tranquillity, my mind and i moved further into the hills on a plateau near the sacred lake Kechoperi. And as divine intervention would have it, i was able to meet with a senior lama whose family ran a rudimentary homestay. So fondly Pala lama took to me that he offered his prayer cottage for the days i spent there. With Pala, all of energetic 83yrs, few more days of intense practice followed.
On the travel back, it was crucial to gain insight into integrating the practices with turbulent urban life, making living & dying seamless experiences, in equanimity, with proper realization of the Way.
There are times in one’s life when dependant co-arising forces converge to fulfil our justified, virtuous and higher aspirations. This was it for me. I finally found myself walking with the Buddha. And i hope to keep pace, gently and mindfully.
