Thursday, May 3, 2018

Consecration of Relic Stupa, Namdroling Monastery, Bylakuppe, 28-29.4.2018.



A stupa by definition is a dome, mound or pyramid shaped commemorative monument erected as a Buddhist shrine containing the body relics of saintly Buddhist monks and nuns. A stupa is a representation of the body, speech and mind of a realized lama who has passed away and therefore acts as a living presence of the Buddha, his protective powers, compassion and wisdom. Stupas also act as powers of support to the seekers and followers for meditative practices. Such stupas in several forms - each shape bearing a specific significance - and sizes are found all over India, Bhutan, Nepal, Sri Lanka, Tibet and among other Buddhist nations and/or where Buddhism is gaining rapidly in embracing a way of life and living, death and dying based on studied faith, universal responsibility and secular ethics.

Recently i had the good fortune of attending the consecration of relic stupa of great relevance and significance at the Namdroling Monastery in Bylakuppe, Karnataka.

Located 90kms from Mysore, this monastery is a must do on the local tourist circuit and is popularly referred to as ‘the Golden Temple’ by locals. Founded in the year 1963 and completed in 1979 by H.H. Padma Norbu Rinpoche after fleeing Tibet due to political instability and invasion by Chinese forces, this monastery of the Palyul lineage of Nyingmapa tradition of Vajrayana Buddhism, today houses a total of 4000 monks and 800 nuns; in its junior school (lobdra), school of rituals (dratsang) and monastic college (shedra), all of who study under the umbrella of the Ngagyur Nyingma Institute, a high calibre global university for higher Buddhist studies. A full-fledged Retreat Centre, set up in 1985, is where about 50 monks can engage in deep practice at one time, for the traditional cycle of three years, three months and three days. A similar retreat centre has also recently been set up for nuns. A large prayer hall - Padmasambhava Buddhist Vihara – with gigantic statues of Sakyamuni Buddha, Guru Padmasambhava (Founder of Tibetan Buddhism)and Buddha Amitayus (Buddha of Limitless Light/Long Life Buddha) is big enough for few thousand monks and nuns to perform prayers simultaneously, is the mainstay of Namdroling Monastery, the mother monastery of which is located in Tibet.

H.H. Padma Norbu Rinpoche was born in 1932 from prophecy of the 5th Dzogchen Rinpoche Thubten Chokyi Dorji (1872-1935). Astounding signs appeared  - unseasonal blooming of flowers, rainbows encircling nearby hills and so on - as he was given birth to by mother Dzomkyid and fathered by Sonam. Over his lifetime until passing away into mahaparinirvana in 2009, HH accomplished tasks unimaginable and unfathomable to the ordinary across India, Tibet, Bhutan, Canada, the UK and USA, France, Hong Kong, Taiwan, Philippines, Taiwan, Germany, Nepal, Singapore, Macau, Malaysia and others, conferring transmissions and empowerments of texts, practices and rituals to students, both ordained and lay practitioners, all along.

It was therefore only befitting that a stupa of his relics was erected and consecrated in the finest manner possible at Namdroling Monastery in South India. Reliquary stupas of HH have also been built in Palyul Monastery in Tibet, Bodh Gaya and Namdroling Nunnery, Bylakuppe in the recent past after his mahaparinirvana.

After two days of the puja ceremony, conducted by the senior most lineage holders and abbots of the monastery, the stupa was consecrated, blessed and dedicated to the people at large who then placed their offerings and prayers of deep devotion and pure aspirations before it. Representation of devotees and sponsors numbering over 300 from far flung places like Vietnam, Taiwan , the USA besides cities of India made it to the event. Monks and nuns worked day and night to make our stay comfortable with more than well laid out arrangements for food, stay and other venue arrangements. An impressive coffee table book titled “The Great Play of Infinite Merit” was released and distributed among attendees, showcasing the life and times of H.H. Padma Norbu Rinpoche with an elaborative commentary on stupa details.

H.E. Mugsang Kuchen Rinpoche, who oversaw the construction and subsequent consecration of the stupa says: “Although i had initial difficulty to study the authentic reliquary stupas in the Potala, Tibet and also find architects and sculptors for them, it is a matter of great joy for all of us that this task is successfully completed. It is an object of veneration for the sangha of Namdroling Monastery as well as a source of accumulating merit for his disciples who will come later. From a worldly point of view it is a memorial of his legacy. There is nothing called ‘distance’ as far as the blessing of one’s root guru is concerned, for there is a saying, “For those whose heart is filled with devotion, I, the Lotus-Born, have not gone astray. I am resting at your doorstep.”


Salient features of the Relic Stupa:
  •       It is a Tashi Gomang Stupa – a stupa of many auspicious doors, symbolic of the first teaching of Sakyamuni Buddha’s Four Noble Truths in Sarnath
  •      The supporting structure of the stupa is about 8ft tall made of finely engraved agarwood (aloeswood) 
  •       Intricate carvings of eight lions on a base of lotus petals, sixteen Offering Goddesses holding sense offerings stand is majestic charm on lotuses
  •     Pillars and shafts between the lions and the borders above are further highlighted by fine carvings of a artform called norzin patra, a Tibetan carving artform featuring jewels surrounded by flowers
  •     Above these layers are attractive carvings of the Eight Auspicious Symbols, Eight Auspicious Substances, Seven Secondary Precious Objects and Five Sensory Objects
  •     Above this base structure rests the chorten or stupa which is 14ft tall and nearly 7ft wide encircled by 3ft bronze statues of the Eight Manifestations of Guru Padmasambhava (Guru Rinpoche), all made specially in Nepal
  •     The stupa itself is made of agarwood and finished with silver sheeting with all of the carvings inscribed on gilded copper plates
  •     Carvings of the main stupa are inlaid with coral and turquoise. The lower part of the throne appears to be held aloft by an elephant, horse, peacock, mythological shang-shang bird-half human and half eagle-and lions.
  •     The four steps above this layer are symbolic of the Four Immeasurables (loving kindness, compassion, appreciative joy and equanimity) with the borders embellished with turquoise and coral
  •     The topmost portion of the stupa (bumpa) symbolizes the seven elements of enlightenment is adorned with pendants and garlands with its four sides made of refined bronze with neatly arranged designs
  •          The crown ornament is made of a blend of gold and copper elements with its surface emblazoned with the seed syllables of the five Buddha families, both male and female in the Ranjana (Lantsa) script
  •       The parasol of the stupa representing the compassion of the buddhas is adorned by hanging tassels and wreath of flowers on top of which is the conjoined sun disc for compassion and moon disc representing wisdom
  •       The ceiling above the stupa is the mandala of Gathering of Vidyadharas drawn in liquid gold encircled by a Tibetan mantra to the omniscient Lama
  •        Inside the stupa is the central axis pole of red sandal alongside and within which are placed sacred mantras, dharinis, body relics, bodhisattva vase and other sacred, precious and medicinal items of great significance according to the scriptures
Memorabilia.

Temple by night.

With attendees.

The Reliquary Stupa


Stupa Post Card



Wednesday, February 14, 2018

LOVE AND ATTACHMENT: Getting it Right

Speaking Tree, Times of India, 15.02.2018
Easy Read:

A young student of mine wrote to me recently and enquired: “Is getting attached to anyone or anything bad? What is the difference between attachment and love?” It is not an uncommon question she had asked. Here’s my explanation:

According to Buddhist definition, there is a distinction to be made between loving someone or something and being attached to it. For this, fundamentally we must understand the difference between 'attachment' and 'love’.

Attachment (Tib: due pa) is based on desire - not necessarily limited to sexual – but one which is grasping in nature based on the ignorant state that things and people are permanent. Attachment is conditional love and is discriminatory in nature. This means that there is a pre-condition set in order to offer love eg: if the judgemental mind establishes a ‘closeness’ to someone or something then we tend to cling to it or grasp at it more and at times don’t seem to get enough of it! If not then we are less interested in it and may even begin to dislike or hate it. There is an ‘if-then’ conditionality linked to it. Attachment is based on 'object' of love arising from a selfish perspective of ‘i alone want to be happy’. There is an action we offer based on ‘subject-object’ duality. Attachment is binding. For these reasons attachment is based on wrong or impure consciousness. Attachment is a non-virtuous, afflictive or contaminated emotion (akushala bhava) leading to negative karma and suffering.

Nature does not support attachment. A tree is not attached to the flower or fruit it bears. Nor does the flower or fruit show any such tendency. On ripening, there is a spontaneous release from both. Same is the case in the animal kingdom. A tigress loves her cub no less than any mother would love her child; but once the cub is sufficiently grown up to fend for itself, there is natural and spontaneous release from the tigress and cub.  

Love (Tib: jampa) on the other hand is based on understanding of impermanence. That something which is born will pass away and hence there is need and reason to love.  This emotion is desireless for any reason whatsoever. It is unconditional and non-discriminatory i.e. there is no pre-condition of 'if-then' at play here.  Much the same way as a mother loves her child unconditionally. It is based on 'reason' for love arising from the basis that it’s not just me alone but all beings who want to be happy and not be in suffering; and therefore need our affection. Love is releasing. For these reasons it is seen to be coming from right or pure consciousness or we can say, mindful consciousness. Sanskrit words used often here are 'karuna', ‘metta’ and 'maitri'. Loving kindness is a virtuous, non-afflictive or uncontaminated emotion (kushala bhava) that leads to joy and positive karmic result.

So, it is clear that any and every kind of relationship should have a close bonding for one another based on love/loving kindness, care being taken that contamination of attachment does not seep in. This maintains the purity of the relationship which becomes stronger, long lasting and capable of weathering many a storm during one’s life.

Attachment is therefore a kind of emotion that needs to be purified and be replaced with its positive counterpart, that of loving kindness. There is danger of attachment becoming a habit if we are not careful to see the difference.

Go ahead! Expand your heart with real love and true affection upon all other beings!


Girish Deshpande(The author is a Pune based practitioner with Ngakpa ordination of the Nyingma tradition of Palyul lineage. More on www.urbanlama.blogspot.com and www.speakingtree.in )

Friday, November 24, 2017

Namdroling Monastery Visit Postcards, November 2017

 A place in NNI/PMTC history...Wow! what a feeling of privilege.
 Senior monks and nuns...

 Junior monks...with Khenpo Sonam Tsewang (sitting first from left)
 Junior nuns...
At TSD Nunnery, Namdroling

Tuesday, March 14, 2017

Destination Head Out: A Solocation, Just Like That!


Tired of the city, one day last week i decided to get away. Concurring on the dates with wifey who nodded her approval, her keen sense of understanding that she almost always does so without a fuss. This time probably happy to see my back for a week! Whatever. I was ready. Where to? What mode of transport? All alone? For how long? were the Q's that obviously sprung up. Frankly, i had no plan. I just wanted out. At first light on March 7th i was off with my MPV, our family's 'old-n-faithful, bold-n-beautiful' Qualis, nicknamed Silver Mary! At 17yrs she’s a celebrated one mind you, still turns heads and can give most new cars on the road a tough huff-puff to the post!

 A few weeks back our daughter Nidhi had penned an article in her 'Keep it Simple, silly' scribbles, dedicated to road journeys. And it triggered this one in me. A few simple rules i had in mind. I wasn’t going to take NH-4 which was done a zillion times over. I wasn’t going to be on the same road as travelled before and i wasn’t going to make a fixed plan for any of the days except in the morning of each day. 


Day-1: That morning i found myself breezing along NH-9, to Solapur passing by naturally curative Uruli Kanchan, industrial Kurkumbh and the massive Ujani Dam backwaters, then shifting on to NH-13. Driving past the city of Bijapur (Vijayapura) with the magnificent Gol Gumbaz on the horizon, a quick stop for dhaba lunch and i was hurtling past Kolhar, Bilgi Cross, Gaddanakeri Cross, Kerur Cross, and quaint little villages of Garsangi, Rolli, Badagandi, Heggur, Sunag, Anagawadi, Kundargi, Sulikeri, Katageri, Halakukri through the district town of Bagalkot and found myself in the historic cave town of Badami. Whew! That was some run. Just enough energy left in me to check out the village, bathe and dine. Its 8pm and i’m out like a light! (489 kms, 9 driving hours)

Day-2: The azan at the local mosque sets of at 5.30am, Supreme Court order be damned! Caves open at sunrise. So, tucking in a steaming hot plate of ‘chow-chow bhath’ (a combo in Karnataka comprising sheera and upma), and downing it with a double large filter coffee, i head out to explore the caves of Badami. These famed caves of the otherwise dusty one street village are just damn worth a visit. Chalukyan Dynasty, 6-7CE, which once governed a region from Tamilnadu to Gujarat, in its resplendent times of glory, is today left with whatever Mughal invaders and British rule thought of leaving behind. If it’s Badami, can Pattadakallu and Aihole be far behind? Quite not. Excellent temple architecture, covering both North and South Indian styles can be witnessed with the revered Mallaprabha river keeping steady company. With some more hours before sunset, i have a dose of Shiva temples at Mahakuta (self-emanating ling & a chatur mukha one too, with the springs of the temple kund irrigating ninety acres of surrounding land) and Banashankari. The ASI has done a superb job of restoration and maintaining all the three sites of great archeological significance. Hats off! Night halt Badami. (80kms, 7 driving and exploring hours)

Day-3: The morning azan is my alarm again. Nevermind, it was anyway time to take out the map and figure out today’s journey. Ilkal, Hubli, Hampi, Gadag were options but i’d been here a decade or so ago. I was pleasantly left with the choice of taking a new country road past the tiny villages of Adgala, Chikka Mucchalguda, Hire Mucchalguda, Salahalli and eventually reaching Lokapur and Mudhol - my ancestral village where we cousins had fun during school vacations, but with which i have no roots left worth mentioning today. Catching up with a few friends at Mudhol, grabbing a local thali at Lokapur, driving past and into small hamlets through an agrarian region was both enriching and revealing. The people, their habits, dressing, food, local culture, language and dialect, religious diversity can all be soaked into during short chai halts and stretch breaks. Local bus shelters make a great melting pot for conversations. Indeed heart rending to see the mighty rivers of Ghataprabha and Krishna fast drying up with three more months of summer ahead! It was destination Belgaum by early evening. A rejuvenating massage and i was ready to hit the sack. (245kms, 5 driving hours)

Day-4: A quick breakfast meet with a cousin and noting down a route recently explored by him, it was destination Panjim for today! This route takes one past Khanapur village and veers off right to Hemadga, through the dense Bhimgad WLS to Anmod. Then through Bhagwan Mahavir WLS to Ponda and Farmagudi via Mollem. NH 4A. Narrow single track forest road not for the faint hearted driver, as the game of ‘who’s gonna chicken out first’ is forever going on for most part of the forest road. Panjim arrived late afternoon only to find myself lucky to get the last available room at the very adorable Afonso Guest House in a quaint by-lane of what is the last remaining Latin quarter in Asia. Once in Panjim, it had to be catching up over lunch with ol’ friend Linda of Viva Panjim fame, make a new friend in Mrs. Afonso, some compulsive Goan style sussegad, heading out for a levitating body massage at Neomis and settling down for some quiet tipple and Portuguese cuisine snugly ensconced in one of the charming balcao’s of my most favourite eating house in downtown Panjim, Venite - since 1954. (140kms, 3 driving hrs)

Day-5: It’s difficult for non-Goans not to be asleep in Goa past one’s usual waking time. Today was no different. Why should it, anyway? A wholesome family cooked brekker with Goan poi (pao) and i was raring to go. The easiest thing would have been to hit NH-4 and get back to Pune same day. But no. I was reminded of the rules. So, it had to be NH-17 (now NH-66). An impromptu catch up over chai with my very first friend in Pune, a school buddy, who now lives in sleepy Aldona, it was almost noon by the time i hit the highway. If one is in no hurry to reach Goa from Pune or Mumbai, i recommend you take this route. It is just so awesomely scenic! Cruising and curving past Kudal, Kasal, Kankavli (where a superb Konkani veg thali at Hotel Ashish was a highlight), Rajapur, Lanja, Hathkhambha, Sangameshwar - from each of these towns, several country roads make it to a dozen pristine beaches, all inside an hour’s drive - i reach Chiplun at 5pm. A near perfect stop at Hotel Reemz for the night was enough to rejuvenate me for the last day tomorrow. (326kms, 5.5 driving hrs)

Day-6: It’s 8am and i’m still lazing in bed. Wtf? and who cares. I’m on a solocation. And with no real plan. Slowly i make way for breakfast, saddle up and am off. Past Khed, Poladpur, Mahad i reach Mangaon. I could well have carried on to get on to the E-way at Panvel but i dint wish to jump into compulsions of city life. Not just yet. So, i veer off onto the Tamhini ghat road. Pulling over and soaking in the serenity of these magnificent mountain woods, i pick out an unassuming but well located food joint ‘Chatai’ overlooking the Mulshi lake for lunch. After which i slowly make my way home to a warm, inviting and excited family. (226kms, 4.5 driving hours).

I have logged over 1500kms of driving. That works out to an average of over 250kms a day, six days on the trot. With zero vehicle down time on a 17-yr old vehicle...no, not even a flat tyre. That's Toyota build quality, reliability and durability! Simply and incredibly awesome.

India inspires. She beckons and challenges. ‘Are you game?’ she seductively seems to taunt. She prepares you for the un-preparable. This one was impromptu. It was free-wheeling. It was without an agenda; without any agenda. Perhaps therefore, it’s been so incredible. Maybe this is another dimension to what is befittingly called ‘Incredible India’!

(Photo credits to the author)
 Daal-Roti khao, acche gun gaao!
 Flat on my highway!
 Badami village from the caves-1
 Badami village from the caves-2
 Badami village from the caves-3
 Badami village from the caves-4
 Alone with the Buddha
 Aihole-1
 Aihole-2
 Aihole-3
 Aihole-4
 Aihole-5
 Aihole-6
 Aihole-7
 Pattadakallu-1
 Pattadakallu-2
 Pattadakallu-3
 North Karnataka outback

Thru Bhimgad WLS
 Goaaaahaa!
 Lovely Linda! :)
 Fish curry n poi
 Venite, since 1954, Downtown Panjim
 Chef's Special @Venite


 Highway on my palette!NH17 (NH-66)
 Mulshi backwaters @Tamhini ghat
 

Monday, February 20, 2017

LOSING ONE’S PRACTICE IN THE RITUALS



Few months back the daughter of my close friend from a minority community said in exasperation “I’m feeling a sense of religious suffocation”. I found the term particularly hard hitting more so as it described her state of mind. When asked to elaborate she said it was the continuous rituals that her religious and ritualistic family coerced her to do all the time, all through the day, year after year that was choking instead of liberating her. That which was making her rebel her faith rather than embracing it more deeply and willingly. I know the parents of this girl to be otherwise quite liberal minded but it is pressure that is put upon them by the community that compels them to follow the others simply so that they can be seen to ‘belong’ to the community and its followers. Failure to comply would mean ostracization and all the sad trappings that come with it; no friends, no groom for the daughter, no community assistance, no interactions, no nothing. Reduced to a social pariah. 

It is true that rituals, including those of study, recitation, chanting, puja and other forms, comprise an integral part of almost every faith. The Hindu religion in particular has very elaborate rituals. If there is one thing to be taken from this faith it could easily be the ritualistic processes and practices. However, it cannot be emphasized more that - unlike conventional subjects and streams of study - in the spiritual path without real time practice i.e. putting our study into practice simultaneously in daily life and living and live situations, rituals don’t help us much in our spiritual development. Infact, Buddhists are convinced beyond any doubt that without practice even study becomes an obscuration on the path. We cannot afford to lose our practice in the rituals. Although this may sound common place, we only have to look around us to see how many have fallen prey to it! Our political class leads by example for such an oddity. 

So then, are rituals really required? Indeed yes, but only up to a certain point and not beyond. All three vehicles in Buddhism have elaborate rituals mentioned in the Sutras and Tantras. They help us in two ways: to understand the subject better and to help us focus our mind on the visualization. However, just as the vehicle is of no use to us once we arrive at our destination, similarly once our practice is stabilized, we no longer need the rituals. It is during our entire lifetime and most importantly at the moment of our passing away that all our practices are put to a test. At that time and moment it is highly unlikely that we may have the luxury to pore over books and notes and conduct elaborate rituals. We have no other tool at our disposal other than our mind to turn to, to see us through. Exhorts Indian Buddhist scholar Nagarjuna (2nd CE): “Turn your attention to your mind, O Śrāvaka”!